UPDATE: the photos are 1) The Surya Garh Hotel at dusk, 2) A young bride sitting on the commuter train just outside Jaiselmer. ..I photographed her thrpugh the window of my own train compartment, with my all mighty samsung camera phone. 3) A couple of little girls dancing in the Thar Desert while we were on our camel ride. 4) Me getting onto my camel. Its a ridiculous photo of me, but the camel was so cool, that I had to post it
So we arrived in Jaiselmer yesterday via 2Tier AC train, and man was that an experiance and a half. As per my last post, there were a couple of Con-men trying to scam all the foreigners in our car by offering them ridiculously cheap tours around Jaiselmer. As i mentioned in my previous post, those kinds of offers are obvious scams, and we were able to let everyone know what was happeing before anyone got fleeced. But thankfully the army police soon took them away and everyone was a lot less tense. (We could tell the two Chinese ladies were a little shaken up, so we helped them get off the train and kept an eye on them until they were safely on thier way). To be honest though, as irritating and even scary as it was, it made an otherwise boring and somewhat unconfortable train ride seem interesting and exciting, and everyone had loads to chat about thereafter!
When we finally arrived in Jaiselmer, (and after exiting the nice air conditioned compartment) we walked into a 37degree desert, complete with Camels, sand dunes and cacti. Luckily we wern't left stranded in the heat for very long, as our turbened chauffer Himmat Singh was ready and waiting with a gorgeous SUV and all the ice cold water and drinks we couldve ever wanted. Himmat drove us out into the scortching desert, and as we approached the Surya Garh Hotel, we felt as though we were being transported back in time to the glory days of the Rajput Dynasty. The Surya Garh is a subsidiery of the Taj hotel chain, and is quite possibly the most spectaclar hotel ive ever stayed in. Having been carved entirely out of sun-bleached sandstone, it closely resembles a Rajputana Palace with it's fort like proportions, arched balustrades, and turbened serving staff. Hosting largely foreign dignitaries and travellers, it offers full spa and workout facilities, 3 large swimming pools, and a variety of restaurants carved into it's immense properties. The suites themselves are quite spectacular as well, with 2 seperate marble bathrooms (one with full waterfall shower and jacuzzi hot-tub) and a seperate sitting room with widescreen digital tvs and a phenomenal view of the sandstone hills. I can definatly admit that i am not accostomed to this type of luxury, but its definatly easy to see how some could get used to it (provide the cost doesn't send you running for the hills) The serving staff won't allow you too do anything for yourself, which is nice when you're juggling a camera and a couple bottles of water, while trying to get your suitcase through the door. But after a while the novelty of it all starts to wear off. I felt very sillly letting somone younger then myself spoon dhal (lentils) onto my plate one teaspoon at a time while i just sat there awkwardly and competently. Two servers were assigned to each table, and the moment you put your fork down, they were at your side asking if you wanted another chapatti, or if they could take your plate. It was a little much at times, as i felt that i didnt deserve that kind of treatment and aparent reverence. But no matter how much i protested, they wouldn't relent. My dad kept reminding me (whenever i'd get frustrated and sad) that it's part of thier job to help us, and that if thier superiors saw us doing things for ourselves, they'd prob get in trouble. But i just couldn't legitimize it in my own head. The seperation between service and servitude is a somewhat blurry line in india, with many of the wealthy elite being treated like royalty, while the lower classes are seen as less. Perhaps it's our western idealism and naivetee that fuels this idea of equality and oneness with one's neighbors, but i could'nt ever imagine being comfortable with such a seperation between the server and the served............. We tried to thank everyone we dealt with as much as we could, with ample tips (as is the custom in India) but i still wished we couldve expressed our appreciation in a better way.
The luxury in india is truly phenomenal, and incomparable to anything ive ever experianced in the west, but the clearly defined class distinctions sort of throw me for a loop...ive never experianced such a duality in human experiance before...Still though.It was an excellent hotel, and i'd recommend it to anyone who visited Jaiselmer.
So after resting in our suite for a couple of hours, we (with Himmat driving) headed out towards the Sam Sand dunes. The sand dunes are part of the Great Thar Desert, and are believed to have formed roughly 4000-10000 years ago, leading to the abandonment and eventual destruction of the Indus Vally Civilization at Mohenjo-daro and Harappa. Today it extends over 200,000sq km from the southern border of Pakistan right to Northern Gujarat. The people are largely farming folk living in stone and grass huts with little electricity or access to modern amenities. With water often being scarce, many raise goats, cows or camels and grow either millet or cotton. We arrived at the dunes about an hour before sunset, and were immediatly taken on a tour of a traditional tenting colony. We then were taken directly down to the dunes themselvese to go on a camel ride!! Honestly, that was one of the funniest experiances ive ever been on. The camel itself was covered in flees and smelled somewhat unpleasant, but that was totally made up for, cuz they are SOOOOOOOO cool. They are fiercely intelligent creatures (despite thier placid and seeminly dopey appearance) and are ideal for travelling over long distances in the sand with not insubstantial weights. The guide took us on an hour long traverse through the dunes and introduced us to a number of local Rajasthani Dancers and children. We also got to watch the sunset from the camels back, and then travelled back to our car in the low light. It was quite an experiance.
When we got back to the Hotel, the staff had organized a traditional Rajasthani cultural display for the guest as well, with a group of _____singers as well as Kathak and Rajasthani dancers performing in a secluded veranda on the hotel's grounds. It was truly excellent!
Today we toured around Jaiselmer City, checking out the jain and hindu residences in Jaiselmer Fort itself and then visited a couple of Jain temples. We also checked out the local marketplace, loòking for sandstone dishes and handicrafts that are unique to the region.
It was definatly an action packed couple of days, and we are now headed to Jodhpur via 3rd classAC train (unfortunately there were no tickets left in first AND second class)....so in case you are wondering, i am currently writing this update while sitting on the third bunk of a sleeper train, in the dark (thank god for my LED flashlight), with a dude hockin up a hairball to my left, and a group of school girls singing (sea shells sea shells on the sea floor!) on my right. Its definatly not as luxurious as our last night in the air conditioned palace. But i reckon it's a tad more lively.
Stay tuned!
- k
Ps I tried uploading photos with this post but my internet was apparently way too slow so they'll have to wait a couple days. Ps I apologize for some of the crummy photo qualities that im putting up...we havnt been able to find a cord for my camera so the stuff on my camera might have to wait till im home...but for now im making due with my cell...sorry guys!
No comments:
Post a Comment